Tuesday, 29 April 2014

Face it, you're stuck here. Treat it good.

'Happy Earth Day!' from last weeks Google homepage was a slightly empty and meaningless statement, given that now earth day is over, the majority of us have reverted to our natural routines of neglecting the everyday damage we're doing to our environment.

For one day a year, the world is reminded of the beauty our earth beholds and the speed at which we are all destroying it.  Tumblr celebrated Earth Day in it's usual, quirky style 'Hug a tree. Enjoy the barky sensation.', whilst still raising some important and thought provoking points.

Utah Phillips once said "The earth is not dying, it is being killed, and those who are killing it have names and addresses."
His statement is undeniably true, as the human population is ruining the earth at astronomical rates.

I fully believe that we all have a sub-conscious desire to preserve the environment whether we know it or not, no-one wants to purposely damage the earth in which they live on. However, ignoring or failing to recognise the damage one is doing is no better than damaging the environment on purpose. And it is not an excuse.

I am particularly interested in sustainable fashion and the idea that everyone should be more aware of what they're buying.
Last spring I took part in the Enliven Fashion Project (http://enlivenfashionproject.tumblr.com/), a competition for emerging designers. This wonderful opportunity involved sourcing unwanted garments from a charity shop, and 'up-cyling' them into new, rejuvenated and stylish outfits.
Reflecting on this event a year later, it's extraordinary how much it has changed my perceptions of the fashion industry.

Each morning, many people on a global scale make a conscious decision on what clothes they wish to wear that day, as well as what message they wish to project about themselves through their fashion choices. It’s interesting to consider how many of us actually think about where our clothes have come from and what the story is behind our outfits. Fashion is a hugely influential and diverse industry which effects the world at a colossal scale. Due to the many ethical and environmental impacts caused by the fashion industry each year, sustainability is a worthwhile topic of discussion, as it is becoming increasingly important that these impacts are maintained for the benefit of present and future generations. 

Emma Watson speaking to British Vogue commented on her own clothing choices: "I think it's important that I'm accountable for the choices I make and understand they have serious consequences." - http://www.vogue.co.uk/news/2014/04/01/bangladesh-rana-plaza-anniversary-fashion-revolution-day

One of the major problems with the fashion industry is the mind set of consumers. The relationship the public has between fashion and consumption contrasts with sustainability goals.

Vivienne Westwood informed i-D: It’s your responsibility as a fashion fan and consumer to “buy less, choose well and make it last.” - http://i-d.vice.com/en_gb/read/interviews/2366/worlds-end

As nation, we shop for clothes addictively due to the constant pressure to change and remain 'in fashion'.
  • The average woman spends £13,000 over her lifetime on clothes she will never wear - (Ecologist: Eco fashion, Volume 38, Issue 2, March 2008, pages 58-65.)
  • Many of our clothing purchases are discarded after 6 months. - (Ecologist: Eco-Fashion, Volume 38, issue 2, March 2008, pages 58-65.)
  • 2 million tonnes of consumer clothing waste is generated in the UK each year, with a large majority of this ending up in landfill. (Ecologist: Eco Fashion, Volume 38, Issue 2, March 2008, Pages 58-65.) 
  • ‘If Britain keeps throwing away rubbish at its current rates, it will run out of space by 2018.’ – (Awdas, R. (2012, February 28th) The Environmental Impact of Fast Fashion. Ethical in Style. Retrieved August 2013, from www.ethicalinstyle.com).
Liz Claudio recognised that "Fashion is low quality and sold prices that make the purchase tempting and the disposal painless." - (Liz Claudio, writing in Environmental Health Perspectives - Sustainable Fashion and Textiles: Design Journeys – Kate Fletcher, 2008). Arguably, the speed of the industry is to blame for this as it is now possible for a designer to turn a design into a fashion product in as little as 3 weeks, with some retailers having up to 15 seasons. This of course reflects into consumers disposal habits. 

The misconceptions are that sustainable clothes are expensive and low quality. However, if we revitalise our relationships with those that make our clothes, we can be assured that the clothes produced are of a high quality. The farmers and factory workers should not be people behind the scenes; they need to be actively recognised. The designer needs to be involved with all aspects of their garment. For example, if the designer is involved with the farmer/producer of their material, they can ensure that they are getting a fair wage and producing good quality materials for the consumer. This would of course mean that the cost of the item would increase, however it would mean fair treatment of the people involved with its production, as well insurability that it is good quality and made to last. The scales need to be tipped away from wanting to purchase extremely cheap clothes that are painless to dispose of; shops like Primark and Matalan almost oppose sustainability goals.

Buying less is not a ridiculous concept and will also benefit wardrobes. If you spend more money than usual on a good quality garment that you really love, it is much better than buying lots of cheap, poor quality clothes you just like.
Simply changing our attitude towards shopping and disposal can really make a difference towards the environment.

As Orsola de Castro recognises - (Borromeo, Leah. (2013, September 23) Was sustainability on trend at London fashion week? The Guardian. Retrieved October 2013, from www.theguardian.com); "It's a tough industry to change because there are so many elements to it. But it is also an industry that can really make a difference."

Face it, you're stuck here. Treat it good.